Ford Ka Wiring Diagram Boot Release
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My reverse lights don't work, but now my trunk is claiming to be open. It isn't. Brake and regular rear lights work fine so I'm guessing the trunk and reverse lights share a wire. Somewhere there must be a brake since the fuse is new as are the bulbs. This isn't a hatch, either. Does anyone know which wires it could be and where they come in from in the trunk?
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You need to check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge , the wires are known to break there and chafe
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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The reverse lights are on a different circuit then the trunk latch. That can be caused from a bad reverse switch possibly. The trunk ajar signal is sent through a black wire from the latch to connector 410 then out of there turns into a yellow and orange wire to the body control module connector 2280B pin 47 if i remember right. You can use an ohm meter and see if there is a break in that wire somewhere. Sometimes just unplugging the connectors and plugging them back together fixes it. Connector 410 is located on the right side of the trunk behind the side panel. Hope this helps
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Okay, I'm new to Fords, and my car is a hatch, so I can't check things for 100%, but every door/trunk/hood open indicator that I've ever seen is a single wire which connects to ground to indicate that the door/trunk/hood is open. A break in that wire will NEVER indicate that the trunk is open it will prevent the car from knowing when it is open.
The only way that these indicate that something is open when it isn't is if the wire is shorted to ground. This can happen where the wire goes near a hinge, or a pinch point. Check near the trunk hinges for damage to the wiring harness, particularly if something looks squashed. Close to the hinge point is the most likely place to find such damage. This might be from having something in the trunk that disrupted the normal pathing for the wire harness.
The reverse lights could have been damaged at the same time, they will go through the same wiring harness. Or the dmaage could have become worse. If the positive wire lead to the lights got shorted as well, you would probably blow fuses. If you have a backup camera, it could also be affected.
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had this problem on my sedan. There's a wire harness on the passenger side of the trunk. It's probably sliced somewhere. I had to add wire to mine and reconnect it so it had more room and won't break again. It was saying the trunk was open all the time and my trunk light wouldn't turn on. Once I fixed it problem solved
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A step in the right direction? Replacements are cheap(ish)
the wiring harnesses
sedan:
~$20 base #14405 -> Link: 14405
hatch
~$20 base #14404 -> Link: 14405
~$30 base #14A069 -> Link: 14A069
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I have a trunk harness in great condition with no cut or broken wires or plugs if you want it. $25.00 shipped. :-D
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A step in the right direction? Replacements are cheap(ish)
the wiring harnesses
sedan:
~$20 base #14405 -> Link: 14405hatch
~$20 base #14404 -> Link: 14405
~$30 base #14A069 -> Link: 14A069
Thanks. Good to know where all that connects and how much it is. I found the spot where the wires are broken. THREE wires are broken, black and white, black, and another black. Why Ford did it that way is beyond me. I reconnected the black and white wire with the crimping tool I have and hopefully it's connected right, but the two solid black ones, I have no idea which is which. It's like 20 degrees outside so I could only stay out long enough to do one. If I had more room and knew which was which I'd just solder them together.
Have you by any change changed these harnesses? I'm wondering how hard it is to do. I know it's not technically difficult, but I mean the routing and all.
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From what I know of the hatch, the trim is the hardest part. 2 screws and it all snaps off, but it snaps easier if you do them at the same time. All three pieces (3 on the left, 3 on the right) overlap in a continuous ring. As far as the sedan? I would think it would be the same except I piece trim on either side inside the trunk if that.
Once the trim is out the liner can be man handled to wherever you need it
The wires themselves are held in place by the snap in zip tie things iirc
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After you start you should just have to follow it to a connector I believe
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This just occurred in my car. 2012 Ford Focus. I stripped the wires back a bit to leave rooom to reconnect them but I need to add wire to make it work. I don't have any wire other than some speaker wire which I believe is two conductor. Can I use that?
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This just occurred in my car. 2012 Ford Focus. I stripped the wires back a bit to leave rooom to reconnect them but I need to add wire to make it work. I don't have any wire other than some speaker wire which I believe is two conductor. Can I use that?
I would probably get some more appropriate wire, but in general, yes, you should be able to splice in some other wire. Most speaker wire can be split by pulling the two conductors apart. make sure that the wire is of at least a similar size, and be sure to insulate the splice well.
It's not a terribly difficult job, but there are things that can go wrong.
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Thanks! I'll stop at Home Depot and get some wire for it. Any chance anyone knows what gauge wire it is? Looks pretty thin.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks! I'll stop at Home Depot and get some wire for it. Any chance anyone knows what gauge wire it is? Looks pretty thin.
I think I'm just going to buy another harness, personally. Less work than splicing and connecting to see if it works. Especially since the wires aren't all marked and some are the same colors (like two sets of solid black).
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Good luck! I wound up not needing extra wire but I'm not sure how long my reconnect will last. I would totally order the part if I could figure out how to pop off all the inside trim to access the wiring.
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Take it one piece at a time, few have screws, most just pop off
I would probably get some more appropriate wire, but in general, yes, you should be able to splice in some other wire. Most speaker wire can be split by pulling the two conductors apart. make sure that the wire is of at least a similar size, and be sure to insulate the splice well.
It's not a terribly difficult job, but there are things that can go wrong.
Hi, I just came across this website. My car has the same problem. Just don't know from 4 black wires which one is which . Is there any speaker wire goes on the trunk door? I added some wires but still does not open the door sensor is disconnected. etc.
You need to check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge , the wires are known to break there and chafe
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
yes but broken wires are all black and don't phisically match up and when "when wrung out with a metere don't make sence
So this is the closest post I could find to an issue I am having. I was rear ended and replaced the rear lift gate on my 2000 Ford Focus wagon. My back window was shattered when it happened so I have no idea where the defrost tabs were located but I know where the wiring was. Now I've put in the new door and can't get the wiring to match up on the new door. It is a year newer than my car but it's the exact same door in every way as far as I can tell. The wire boot placement is the same and there is a defrost tab in the too left corner and a spot for one on the bottom right corner where it has been broken off possibly by me when pulling it at the scrap yard. Has anyone ever run into this? No matter which way I run it the ground wire, harness for the latch and harness for the wiper reach but then I can't hide them with the trim. The live side of the defrost also doesn't reach where it was on my door and on the side where there is a tab on the new door it goes past it but not far enough to just move the terminal down and hide it on the bottom. I'm at a point where I've been driving around with no trim and wires hanging down in the back to get to and from work.
A step in the right direction? Replacements are cheap(ish)
the wiring harnesses
sedan:
~$20 base #14405 -> Link: 14405hatch
~$20 base #14404 -> Link: 14405
~$30 base #14A069 -> Link: 14A069
This pic is accurate to the most part for a wagon as well yeah?
Posted by: handroebs.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/does-anyone-have-a-trunk-wiring-diagram.810763/
